Sonoma Dish: St. Patty’s Day corned beef bland? Blarney!

So you think you’re Irish, do you now? It seems everyone joins in celebrating the Irish on what has become a huge international holiday. Unfortunately, the staple fare of corned beef has developed a bad rap with the “once a year” Irish. Along with boiled cabbage and warm green beer, it is no wonder the traditional food takes a back seat to the celebration. I’m of Irish descent and my husband is a first generation Irish American so the custom of celebrating this “holiest of holy days” is important to us - especially the food.

Much folklore surrounds St. Patrick’s Day but not much of it is substantiated. Shamrocks, pots of gold at the ends of rainbows, and rosy-cheeked little green men may or may not exist. What we do know to be true is corned beef and its traditional side dishes are quite delicious when prepared properly.

Corned beef is made from the cut of beef known as the brisket. But because it is the chest muscle and gets a good workout, it’s tough. The key is to braise not boil this cut of meat. Braising is a technique by which the meat is simmered in a small amount of flavorful liquid and cooked, tightly covered, at low heat for a lengthy period of time. The long, slow cooking tenderizes the tough cut and fully develops its flavor. And with the addition of a spicy-sweet rub and glaze, a high flavor quotient is guaranteed.

A quickly sautéed warm cabbage salad loaded with tart green apples, blue cheese and toasted pistachios resembles nothing of its bland, boiled cousin. Steam some new red potatoes and toss with a little butter and fresh parsley, and finish the St. Patty’s Day repast with a comforting sweet bread pudding topped off with a rich Irish whiskey sauce. Enjoy with a cold Guinness beer. Green optional. Enjoy the food. Eat more than you drink. And may the luck of the Irish be yours.