Former Fremont Diner reborn as Boxcar Fried Chicken in Sonoma

It's not often that fried chicken makes headlines, but the humble Fremont Diner did just that when it debuted back in 2008. Sunset, Food & Wine and Oprah magazines gushed about the funky little shack on Highway 121 in Sonoma-Carneros, and crowds converged for deliciousness like a Whole Hog sandwich of oak-smoked pork with coleslaw and pickles, shrimp po'boy, all-day breakfast, and yes, lip-smacking fried chicken with crackly crust and a side of mac ‘n' cheese.

When Fremont suddenly closed in late June, diners mourned. But then, just as suddenly, in September, the diner reopened, as Boxcar Fried Chicken & Biscuits. As the name suggests, fried chicken is front and center, rounded out with a few starters like spiced deviled eggs dressed with pickled mustard seeds($6), salads like beet with sheep milk cheese ($4), and nibbles like an oyster roll slicked with remoulade and pickled onions ($13.95).

The owners, Chad and Erika Harris, also went back to the counter service they had when they started the diner, for a fast-casual mood where tips are still encouraged.

I understand the need to simplify, after chatting with Erika. “A yearlong series of family health issues and difficulty finding enough staff finally became overwhelming in June,” she said. “We decided the menu and hours needed to be simplified. Breakfast, especially with eggs, is much more complicated to get on the table than it seems. So we focused on the fried chicken because it had been our most popular item.”

Still, I'm bummed. Boxcar remains cute, with its white painted roadside structure backing up to vineyards, a black-and-white railroad mural inside, and handful of tables set with orange chairs. Yet, like its stripped-down, gray paint interior, there's not much spark here at the moment. I'm hoping that as the Harris family finds its groove again, we'll find more of that former Fremont flair.

The fried chicken is still usually good, based on essentially the same Fremont recipe with a few new seasoning tweaks that chef Chad employs. The poultry are small fryer birds, because as Erika explained, “When the chicken is too large, the breast dries out before the inside is fully cooked.”

I like the juiciness of the brined birds. But the meat gets weighed down by thick crust. And on one visit, the crust was pleasing with its tasty touch of grease, while on another, it was very dry with a burned aftertaste.

The platters are also pricey, even with two small sides and an excellent, warm, fluffy-custard-y buttermilk biscuit included. Served in cardboard boats on a paper-lined tin tray, the meals come in a variety of portions – breast, wing, leg and thigh ($16.50), breast and wing ($13.50), leg and thigh ($12.50).

Ultimately, I find myself preferring the fried chicken sandwiches, enjoying the extra flavor from pimento cheese, slaw and soft potato roll with the Golden Boy ($13.95), and the house-made sweet-hot pepper jelly with the biscuit model ($9.50). The big, messy bites are barely contained by their paper wrappers, and you'll want extra napkins.

I do like this: we can order our chicken with custom seasoning, ranging from extra salt, to Nashville style mild, medium or hot. Pay mind to that spice, too, since even the mild packs a healthy cayenne wallop that had me spooning up soothing mouthfuls of my Straus soft-serve salted caramel milkshake ($6).

Sides are reliable, with my favorites of soupy collard greens brimming with savory chew, and chunky potato salad. Baked beans are standouts, as well, made with seasonal butter beans in summer and navy beans in winter for firm texture in their thick tomato base. For the Nashville platters ($12-$18.50), we get a slab of white bread, too, and plenty of Boxcar's terrific homemade pickles.

Whatever you order, be sure to get the hush puppies ($7). The hearty bites are divine, moist inside and crispy outside, and kissed with cheddar and poblano peppers. Grab some Woodfour Bohemian Nectar Saison ($6.50) or a glass of Scribe Chardonnay ($10), and you've got a party.

More good news - Fremont was famous for its fried hand pies ($5), and so now is Boxcar. Stuffed with seasonal fruit like strawberry or apples, the glazed or powdered sugar beauties are nearly enough for two diners, assuming anyone would share even a crumb.

For the chicken glitches here and there, I still have faith that Boxcar will smooth out its rough edges. Already, the Harris duo is making improvements, and giving more attention to the operation. Just this week, they expanded operating hours from lunch-only Monday through Friday, to lunch Monday through Wednesday and lunch and dinner Thursday through Saturday.

Plus, as Erika noted, “The restaurant name came from our family's love of trains and a certain nostalgia for a period when they were important to California's development.”

That's like the public's love of and nostalgia for Fremont, I think. With the new Boxcar, the Harris family is working to bring that happiness back.

In summary, the former Fremont Diner has hit some bumps in its new incarnation, but things look bright for the future.

Carey Sweet is a Sebastopol-based food and restaurant writer. Read her restaurant reviews every other week in Sonoma Life. Contact her at carey@careysweet.com.