Musings: Where we ate back in the old Sonoma days

After my four-part Plaza at Christmas series was published, somebody asked me where we ate in those days. Compared to our Plaza today, I have to admit there were not many choices. I remember only a few: El Dorado, Swiss Hotel, Toscano Hotel and Union Hotel.

Of those, only the Swiss and El Dorado stand out.

The Swiss Hotel is still operated by members of the Marioni family. The cooks during my childhood and early adult years were Fred and Nancy Wing. Helen (Marioni) Dunlap and her husband, Ted, were the managers.

The cuisine was Italian. But there was also a Chinese menu. The tables were covered in red-and-white checked tablecloths on which candles burned in wicker-wrapped Chianti Classico green glass jugs.

While Ted tended bar, Helen greeted and seated guests. Inevitably, Freddie would come out of the kitchen to say hello, and sometimes sit down for a drink, until Nancy yelled at him to get back to work.

On most nights, virtually all the diners were locals, neighbors and friends, some of whom owned local ranches, who made dinner at the Swiss their weekly night out. Conversations between tables and with people going to and from tables often gave the dining room a party atmosphere.

Whenever Dottie and I go to dinner at the Swiss, I still expect to see familiar faces as I look across the dining room. It is also wonderful that Kristin Dunlap Schantz is the fifth generation of the Marioni family to run the business, having recently taken over from her cousin Hank Marioni, who took over the business from his Aunt Helen in 1991.

El Dorado Hotel, as I remember it, was a place where Sonomans celebrated their birthdays, anniversaries and other special occasions. It was just a few doors down from the Swiss, and had a large bar and dining room that could accommodate a crowd. The cuisine was hearty Italian with family-style servings.

It was owned and operated by John and Marie Merlo. Marie took over in the 1960s after John died. The popular El Dorado bar was tended by a colorful character named “Ski” Krenjiewski.

I remember Marie as a very active and engaged manager who seemed to know everybody in town. Local residents counted on her to help them throw parties for special occasions.

El Dorado was also where the Sonoma Kiwanis Club met every Tuesday night. It was a large club with many prominent locals as members. Their meetings included guest speakers and singing. Marie seemed to manage those sometimes rowdy, gatherings with grace and efficiency. She was a much-loved and respected member of the community.

I have only vague memories of the other two dinner spots on the Plaza of that era.

The Toscano Hotel closed in 1955 after its owner, Jack Walton, died. My grand aunt and uncle Celeste and Walter Murphy, who lived next door in the restored Barracks, were frequent diners at the Toscano. They were often accompanied by their friend (and Sonoma Valley resident) retired General H.H. “Hap” Arnold, the father of the United States Air Force. My dad and mom often joined them for one of Jack’s famous old fashioneds.

The only other Plaza dinner place was the Union Hotel, but by the early 1950s it had closed and in 1955 it was demolished to make room for the new Bank of America on West Napa Street.

A block and a half west of the Plaza, where Wine Country Cyclery is today, was Don’s Fine Foods, a kind of upscale diner, which also served breakfast and lunches. It was a popular spot in the spring and summer months because it was directly across from the town’s only lighted ball field (where Black Bear Diner is today). Many men of my dad’s generation played in the town softball league with teams sponsored by local businesses, including Don’s Fine Foods. Naturally, the players and their families had dinner at Don’s following games.

There were other restaurants in Sonoma Valley at the time, including Sonoma Grove on way to Boyes Hot Springs (where the marijuana dispensary is now) and another in Boyes Springs called Mendel’s. Many of the old summer resorts, including Paul’s, Our Resort and El Verano Inn also served dinners. One of the most popular places was Golden Bear Lodge, at the north end of Kenwood, in Adobe Canyon, on Sonoma Creek.

It is possible that I’ve forgotten some and invite anyone with better recollection to email me at flyfisherbill@me.com. I will try to include them in a future column.