Kathleen Hill: Tale of two Amy’s

The tastiest tidbits in town from our longtime food and wine columnist.|

The story about complaints filed with Cal OSHA against Amy’s Kitchen’s plant in Santa Rosa was first published by the Press Democrat and then on the Index-Tribune’s website.

It must be clarified that Amy’s Kitchen has no relationship to Amy’s Restaurant next to Sonoma Market here in Sonoma. A check at Amy’s Restaurant here on Tuesday at lunchtime showed an empty take-out restaurant where often there is a well-spaced line out the door and constant traffic.

COVID stigma?

Remember when we first mentioned that Dutch Bros. Coffee had closed because a staffer had COVID?

At the time I complimented them on their honesty as the first in Sonoma to test, admit and close to clean and do their part to prevent the spread of COVID-19. Many people rushed to order from them to help business after they reopened.

In his most recent print issue of Valley of the Moon Magazine, David Bolling wrote an article in which he asked me to compare the stigma of having polio with a developing COVID-19 stigma.

Perhaps the polio stigma was a little greater because many survivors had and have visible effects, in my case a limp and leg braces.

COVID effects vary from person to person and whether they have had all shots against it, but few of the results of this virus are visible.

But the social rumor effects can be devastating to businesses and events, and some restaurant and tasting room owners and caterers have had to close temporarily if they have staff who have tested positive for the virus.

Even Adele, Elton John, and Harry Potter have had to postpone performances this week, partially due to COVID.

Some restaurants and tasting rooms close while saying that was the reason, some just plain close to “wait it out,” some close to do spiff ups, some close due to positive cases and say they closed for spiff ups, and some just don’t get their staff tested because they don’t’ want to know the results. And others always close in January for winter spiff ups. And many didn’t close at all.

And this can be true of families, too. But occasionally those with runny noses and greater fatigue than normal who avoid testing find out their kids in fact test positive at school and have to come home.

Other restaurateurs make a point of saying they didn’t close due to COVID and some seem occasionally “doth protest too much,” to slightly misquote William Shakespeare.

The girl & the fig, Glen Ellen Star, and Valley Bar + Bottle have all reopened.

For its silver anniversary, girl and the fig is pulling out all the stops. (CRISTA JEREMIASON / The Press Democrat)
For its silver anniversary, girl and the fig is pulling out all the stops. (CRISTA JEREMIASON / The Press Democrat)

25th anniversary dinner sold out

But you can make a reservation for the next one on Sunday, March 6.

Just a week after announcing their 25th Anniversary Dinner Series, the girl & the fig’s first dinner sold out.

The next one celebrates the restaurant’s 2007 menu with heirloom radishes and anchovy butter; a rock shrimp cake with buttered cabbage with preserved lemons and celery root remoulade, followed by a grilled pork chop entrée with cheddar beet gratin, braised greens, and lardons with “Sonoma mustard sauce.”

Two glasses of house wine are included. $65. Proof of vaccinations and booster shots required. Reserve at figcaters.com/store/event/25th-anniversary-dinner-2007/.

Reel & Brand reopens

Reel & Brand at what was once Little Switzerland, reopened on Wednesday Jan. 26.

Managing partner Kevin Kress announced, “We had no COVID issues, simply closed due to so many being concerned and us being part of the community to stop or slow the virus.” But they did go ahead with a huge New Year’s Eve party.

Chef Aurora now offers new menu items including grilled chicken and veggie skewers or grilled shrimp and veggie skewers and chili cheese fries.

Other additions include a new Farmhouse Burger with a half-pound 100% chuck and brisket patty, a fried egg, Dubliner cheese and bacon.

Kress added, “Chef Aurora's Catch is a fresh catch of the day in a nice lemon and butter sauce, simple and yummy.”

R&B will have new winter hours as follows: 3:30 to 8 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday, 3:30 to 8 p.m. with food service in the bar only on Wednesday, Friday 3:30 to 9 p.m., Saturday noon to 9 p.m., and Sunday noon to 7 p.m.

They will also feature their happy hour from 3:30 to 5:30 p.m. the days they are open, and will have music Thursday through Saturday. 401 Grove, Sonoma. 707-938-7204.

Jacob’s Pizza & Pinot deal

Such a deal!

While this whole Pizza & Pinot concept was originated by Sondra Bernstein and John Toulze and continued under Sarah and Darius Anderson’s ownership of Ramekins, it exists no longer there.

Jacob’s has picked up the baton for their weekday happy hour, offering soup or mixed green salad, choice of one glass of wine from Schug Chardonnay, Eco Terreno Rosé, or Oak Farm Zinfandel, and a personal pizza of either cheese, pepperoni, or “Sonoma” special. All for $20. 4-6 p.m. Monday through Friday. 1266 Broadway, Sonoma. 707-996-4024.

Taylor Serres at the Serres Ranch on Highway 12 on Wednesday, Sept. 15, 2021. (Photo by Robbi Pengelly/Index-Tribune)
Taylor Serres at the Serres Ranch on Highway 12 on Wednesday, Sept. 15, 2021. (Photo by Robbi Pengelly/Index-Tribune)

Serres Ranch opens for tastings

For the first time, Serres Ranch has opened its barn for tasting their wines, proud as they are to be making wine and not just selling grapes to other producers.

And by the way, they are the same Serres family who raise cattle and grow luscious blueberries near Laytonville.

On your visit, you can taste their highly rated 2018 Watriss Estate Blend that they say goes well with prime rib. The tasting room is open daily by appointment,

Each tasting costs $40 and includes a ranch and vineyard tour with tastings of their estate wines. They recommend you plan an hour and a half or two hours to best enjoy your visit. Open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. 16060 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma. serrewranchwines@gmail.com.

National Cheese Lover’s Day was celebrated Jan. 20. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
National Cheese Lover’s Day was celebrated Jan. 20. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

National Cheese Lover’s Day?

Somehow I missed this food day, probably because every time I used to mentioned them they got edited out, but apparently Jan. 20 was National Cheese Lover’s Day.

I found out because Sonoma Creamery, the successor to the real Sonoma Cheese Factory, sent out an email pushing their cheese crisps.

It seemed a bit ironic since Sonoma Creamery no longer makes cheese, nor does the Mattsons’ Sonoma Cheese Factory (still missing an “e”) on Sonoma Plaza.

Sonoma Creamery produces cheese crisps and suggests people snack on them, with the hint that you might feel like you are in Sonoma if you do.

Valentine’s Day culinary hearts

If you want to treat someone extra specially on or around Valentine’s Day, you can cook their favorite something or take them out for their or your favorite restaurant.

Here are menus from those who thought ahead and sent them to me, in the order they arrived.

Glen Ellen Star

Glen Ellen Star reopened this week with full service every evening.

Their Valentine’s menu looks interesting for sure, starting with gougères, followed by a first course to share of wood oven roasted beets with almond-harissa crumble and Meyer lemon olive oil and winter lettuce salad with candy-striped beets, crushed hazelnuts with citrus dressing and whipped labne.

Second course consists of wood baked scallops, steamed Little Neck clams and celery bacon “chowder” or grilled Snake River Farms zabuton with caramelized Belgian endive, and pommes purée with grated black winter truffle served family style. And then there’s the always irresistible chocolate mousse for dessert.

When making a reservation, be sure to request seating at the dining room, chef’s counter or heated outside tent. $100 per person. Reserve at resy.com or glenellenstar.com. 343-1384.

Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn

FSMI’s $135 per-person menu kicks off with “optional beginnings” of an ounce of Tsar Nicolai caviar and buckwheat blinis for an additional $72 or Beau Soleil Oysters with mignonette and cocktail sauces for $24 for six or $48 for a dozen.

The official first course gives a choice between Hamachi carpaccio, grapefruit aguachile and crispy shallots or salt roasted beets, preserved lemon, ricotta and burnt honey.

Next come choices of wild mushroom ravioli with sunchoke purée and black truffle or lobster and saffron risotto with sea urchin butter.

The third course brings seared black cod with celery root and Dungeness crab hollandaise, violet mustard crusted lamb rack with heirloom carrots, or Carmen Ranch filet with whipped Yukon potatoes, asparagus and bone marrow butter.

Then you can add in a cheese course for $15 per person, and end with strawberry coeur a la crème and candied pistachios or dark chocolate tart with passionfruit and sea salt. 5 to 9 p.m. Reservations at 707-939-2415.

Tips Roadside

Check out their starter of a glass of champagne with a Cobb salad, followed by a choice of smoked prime rib or smoked chicken and sides of creamed spinach, smoked mushrooms, baked potatoes and sourdough rolls. All this with red velvet cake for dessert. $95 per person. Reservations at tipsroadside.com.

PKB (formerly Picazo Kitchen & Bar)

PKB offers this menu from Friday to Monday, Feb. 11 to 14, in case you want to avoid the Valentine’s Day crowd. Their regular menu will also be available.

Ever the delightful romantics, Kina (and Sal) Chavez propose a first course called “First Kiss” that consists of a choice of beet salad with feta cheese, pepitos, balsamic reduction and orange segments; or a Caesar salad with Kina’s special Caesar salad dressing.

“Second Base” offers a heart shaped pizza with Sal’s pesto, mushrooms, cherry tomatoes, Portobello, arugula and parmesan; Kina’s pozole verde made with a chicken thigh, bone broth and organic hominy; or pappardelle Bolognese with ground, Niman Ranch beef, shaved parmesan and red pepper flakes.

And the “Happily Ever After” consists of more choices between a heart-shaped brownie with Banuelos, chocolate syrup and vanilla ice cream; creamy cheesecake with strawberries; or blackberry crostata with crème fraiche and vanilla ice cream. $45 for one, $85 for two. For the special menu pre-orders are required. Reserve at 707-935-3287, Picazokitchen.com, or resy.com.

Hanson of Sonoma distillers

Hanson of Sonoma, famous for their vodkas, baptizes their new chef, Patrick Staring by allowing him to create food pairings to celebrate Valentine’s Day on Feb. 4 through 6 and Feb. 11 through 14.

Watch for 90-day aged strip loin with Hanson whiskey demi glaze and a 4-ounce butterflied lobster tail, with or without cocktails ($55 to $75); aphrodisiac Regiis caviar and 12 Hog Island oysters and exciting cocktails made with Hanson products.

As well, Hanson and Staring are launching brunches every Friday through Sunday featuring smoked salmon wood-fired pizza with crème fraiche, smoked salmon dip, broiled King crab and other pizzas.

Super Bowl Sunday brings Hanson Bloody Mary’s until 1 p.m. as well as DIY kits to make at home. Bloody Mary $15 and paired with shrimp and bacon skewers ($18). Lovingly lovely time to be had by all, hopefully. 22985 Burndale Road, Sonoma. 707-343-1805.

Culinary classes at the Sonoma Community Center have been moved outside during omicron. (Photo: SCC)
Culinary classes at the Sonoma Community Center have been moved outside during omicron. (Photo: SCC)

Cooking classes

Enterprising Elise Gonzales-Sahota, who had just returned to her native Sonoma from 10 years in India, had the bright idea of starting a “culinary center” at the Sonoma Community Center, an idea this writer had proposed there several times for several years.

With a new administration and new proposal they said yes.

Many of the classes she has organized reflect what she learned in India, and she has added some with former longtime Ramekins Culinary School manager chef Lisa Lavagetto and Julie Steinfeld of Sonoma Food Gurus.

The February cooking classes might make fun Valentine gifts for your current or would be “Valentine.”

All classes will be outdoors, but it is your decision whether the spacing serves your COVID-19 needs.

According to Gonzales-Sahota, “All our classes are hands on. Prices range from $60-$140 depending on the length of the class.”

Indian breakfast

Raja Sahota will show a Punjabi “vegetarian friendly” breakfast of Aloo Paratha, a pan-fried bread stuffed with spiced potatoes and mango lassi, an Indian sort of smoothie. Saturday, Feb. 5, 11 a.m. to 1 p.m.

Choux pastry

On Tuesday, Sunday, Feb. 6 chef Charles Bocchetti teaches Choux-Nanigans or pâté a choux pastry dough for three “pastry applications” as well as savory and sweet fillings as appetizers, a main course and dessert. 11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.

Food is Medicine

Herbalist Anna Sullivan teaches Ayurvedic practices and techniques “for prepping your body for Spring,” as well as “a tea blend to drink throughout the Spring season to promote balance, and make a tri-doshic spring dish.” Saturday, Feb. 12, 1 to 5 p.m.

Coquilles Saint-Jacques

Sonoma Food Gurus Chefs Lisa Lavagetto and Julie Steinfeld will teach a class on Sunday, Feb. 13, from 11 a.m. to noon on how to make this delicious and seductive creamy scallop dish.

Plant-based Lebanese cooking

Spread Catering’s chef and owner, Cristina Topham, has changed the dates of her Lebanese-style plant-based classes to Feb. 16 and 23 from 6:30 to 8 p.m.

En Papillote French Technique

Chef Elise Gonzales-Sahota will show the French technique of packing fish and vegetables into a pouch before baking and how to add sauces to enhance the dish on Tuesday, Feb. 15, 6:30 to 8 p.m.

Chili Bowl Express postponed

Sonoma Community Center has postponed its annual Chili Bowl Express until May.

Due to COVID, the Ceramics Department members and students were unable to spend enough time in the studio to create enough bowls.

Hopefully the virus will ebb and bowls will flow. The goal is to reschedule for May 13 and 14. Tickets already purchased will be honored either day. Sonomacommunitycenter.org.

Masking scofflaws?

We have received emails from would-be customers who have been upset that there are no signs requiring masks at Sonoma’s Best and Sonoma Cheese Factory, both Mattson properties.

The emails have also mentioned that neither staff nor food servers were wearing masks. One guest at Sonoma’s Best said they asked to speak to the manager and was told “We are all managers.” Then when asked why they weren’t following the state requirements, guests were told, “Our owner says we don’t have to.”

While Starbuck’s recently dropped vaccination requirements for staff, employees do wear masks.

The Bear Moon Clothing Co. on East Napa Street on Saturday, Jan. 22, 2022. (Robbi Pengelly/Index-Tribune)
The Bear Moon Clothing Co. on East Napa Street on Saturday, Jan. 22, 2022. (Robbi Pengelly/Index-Tribune)

Sad retail goodbyes

All three retail stores are going, going, gone, which leaves a dent in places for people to shop on Napa Street and First Street East.

Chase Bank owns the G’s General Store location. Who else says: “Bring back the liquor store?”

I have long thought that the Bear Moon Clothing location would make a great local cafe, given its pleasant design and lovely protected patio that has been unused for years. Who wants it?

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