Kathleen Hill: Schellville Grill sold and Valentine’s Day dining options

Food news from around the Valley.|

No holes in Sonoma donut scene

Dirty Girl Donuts of Cobb in Lake County has shut down its bakery. Founders Marisa Wondolleck and Sarah Decker are moving it all to Sonoma and are scheduled to initially sell retail in the front of what was Massage Envy.

Dirty Girl advertised on social media that they are “a growing artisan donut company based out of Sonoma Valley” and were “looking for motivated pastry chefs with a creative edge,” but apparently they are no longer accepting applications.

Their social media ads also said, “Here at Dirty Girl Donuts we create gourmet donuts with locally sourced seasonal ingredients. Our job is to push the envelope with flavor combinations, and creative presentations.”

About their donut business plan, Wondolleck was quoted in a 2017 story in the Lake County Record-Bee saying, “This was supposed to be a custom cake shop. But one Friday night we had too much wine” and changed direction.

Sonomans can also throw their donut support behind Harvey's Gourmet Donuts, a company run by the Cohen family who have lived in Sonoma for many years, and are expected to open a brick-and-mortar shop in El Paseo this spring in the space vacated by Hare & Hatter, which will reopen on Napa Street as Sausage Emporium.

Schellville Grill sold

After 19 years of cooking at Schellville Grill in 'downtown' Schellville, owner Matthew Nagan has finally sold his restaurant at Broadway and Highway 121.

Nagan, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park, says that after three previous failed escrows, this one closed on Monday and the money is in the bank. The buyer is Jordan Kivelstadt, who will close Kivelstadt Cellars, his Glen Ellen tasting room. Matthew Tucker of Pangloss Cellars will join Kivelstadt's team at Schellville Grill.

Long gone are the days when the American flag flying at the restaurant meant that the Amtrak connecter bus was on its way.

The creator of Matthew's Mustards, which he sold out of his van to the delights of many local cooks, and later Matthew's Burritos, Nagan first converted the biscuits and sausage gravy of the Lazy D and Ford's Café to an herb biscuit and light sauce diner to the shock of many local farmer regulars.

A big music fan, Nagan collected decades of encounters with stars such as Mick Jagger, Tina Turner and Keith Richards, and became a favorite of chef Guy Fieri's 'Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives' on the Food Network.

Eventually Nagan fell in love with Italy and now owns a small inn there and has flown back and forth with great culinary stories and visiting chefs. In the course of trying to sell the Grill, he endured several floods and even a chain link fence erected around the parking lot by a disgruntled business suitor.

Now he says he is leaving this week for Italy and 'parts unknown' and his version of the best life. Before he boarded a Delta flight, he made sure to visit old friends and supporters including Buck and Ang Sangiacomo, Becky and Tom Larson, Pam Hellen and Dick Cuneo, followed by several goodbye Happy Hours at Sonoma Grill and Plaza Bistro.

So long, amigo.

Mardi Gras Dinner & Dance

Mardi Gras, or Fat Tuesday or Shrove Tuesday, usually has a lot to do with letting it all loose before Lenten sacrifices, that is if you give something up for Lent. Or even if you don't.

Traditionally Mardi Gras offers a chance to indulge in lots of fattier-than-usual food, drink more than usual, and general partying before the supposedly calmer period of sacrifice.

The Valley of the Moon Knights of Columbus offer a festive evening at St. Francis Solano Church's Father Roberts Hall, Saturday, Feb. 8.

The evening starts with a complimentary sparkling wine and barbecue oyster reception of the Lunny family's oysters, and 'Big Easy' appetizers from Aunt Momo's Catering, courtesy of Mara Roche.

The four-course 'New Orleans style dinner' will include salad, traditional mock turtle soup with chicken, jambalaya, Chapala-style barbecued shrimp, corn masque choux, collard greens, and chocolate bourbon pecan pie with chantilly cream.

Live entertainment by the John Simon Trio and Sheila from 6 to 10 p.m. Reception 6 p.m. Dinner 7 p.m. $45. 469 Third St. W., Sonoma. Tickets at parish office or via vomknights.eventbrite.com.

Garagiste Wine Festival next weekend

The Garagiste Wine Festival kicks off its 10th anniversary tour in Sonoma, Saturday, Feb. 15 before it moves on to Solvang, Los Angeles and Paso Robles.

All in all it will offer samplings from 40 micro-production commercial wineries pouring more than 100 wines from Sonoma, Napa, Mendocino, Sierra Foothills, Lodi, Santa Cruz and beyond.

This year's wineries include 12 that have never participated at a Garagiste Festival before, including wines from Katie Bundschu's Abbot's Passage (although she has a shop here in Sonoma), 601 Cellars, Aesop Wines, Brombeere Wines, Carboniste Modern Sparkling, JonEVino, Oceano Wines, Ondule Wines, Purple Dragon Cellars, Ricci Vineyards, Sutro Wine Co. and Zo Wines. Tickets at door or at Eventbrite.com: $65 to $130 VIP. VIP includes Girl & the Fig box lunch, special tastes and chocolates.

New executive chefs at Ramekins

Tyler and Aubrey O'Laskey of Butter & Salt catering in Reno, Nevada have been brought in to replace former chef Kyle Kuklewski at Ramekins. Both O'Laskeys graduated from the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park, New York, where they met and fell in love, according to their website.

Tyler trained at Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Tarrytown, New York and is a Certified Beer Server. Aubrey passed the Level 1 sommelier certification from the Court of Master Sommeliers, and is a Nevada native. Butter & Salt also owns Perenn Bakery specializing in bread and croissants in Reno.

La Prenda Vineyards names winemaker

Ned Hill has brought in former Schug winemaker Mike Cox as the new winemaker for both their La Prenda Vineyards Management and Sonoma Collection wines. Hill and Cox grew up in Sonoma and now have ended up in the wine business together.

A totally local company. La Prenda farms more than 30 estate vineyards that cover more than 900 acres. La Penda initially got into making Sonoma Collection wines in 2001 by buying excess grapes from some of the vineyardists whose land they farmed.

Having graduated in enology from U.C. Davis in 1991, Cox worked alongside legendary pinot noir innovator Walter Schug for 25 years and served as winemaker at Schug from 1995 until leaving last year.

Hill's Sonoma Collection quickly leapt into Wine Business Monthly's annual Hot Brands list.

Hill said he and Mike Cox 'have worked together for 20 years during our farming of the Schug Estate,' and both men are excited to be working together and having the opportunity to create some outstanding wines. Hill continued, 'Having him on board will allow us to find the most profitable path for our clients as we enter a challenging grape market and move toward producing more wines for our clients.'

In other words, they will take advantage of their respective expertise in farming and winemaking to face the challenges of a possible grape glut and lowered interest in drinking wine.

Cox said he 'jumped at the chance to broaden my palette and work closely with the vineyard sites he farms. My job is to bring out the individual vineyard's character and over-deliver at price point while maintaining style and elegance in the wines.'

La Prenda Vineyards Management farms properties in Sonoma Valley, Carneros, Sonoma Mountain and Bennett Valley.

The vineyards they manage include those of Schug, Nicholson Ranch, Hanna, Bennett Valley Cellars, MacLeod, Happy Wife, Fifth Hill, 95476, Parmelee-Hill, Roche, and their own Sonoma Collection. Laprendavineyards.com.

Pink Saturday

Wearing his Out in the Vineyard hat, Gary Saperstein just announced that his annual hilarious Pink Saturday gay afternoon, will move to Viansa Sonoma winery on Saturday, May 2. Once again the event will benefit Positive Images, a group that supports LGBTQ youth in Sonoma County.

Guests of all persuasions dress up in pink, some subtle and some outrageous, for the occasion. This year will bring a hot DJ spinning, light bites, and lots of pink Viansa wines.

Saperstein said: 'I am very excited to find a beautiful space for this event. It was such a success last year and it can be even bigger and better in this space with the stunning vistas up at Viansa.' $75 with 15 percent discount through Feb. 14. Tickets at outinthevineyard.com.

Martini Madness verifiably insane

Gary Saperstein and Bill Blum's Martini Madness event last weekend at the Lodge at Sonoma was a success with HopMonk Tavern cleaning up the awards in the martini cocktail competition.

HopMonk Tavern won Best Theme Table with its Willie Wonka setup, Most Creative Martini and Best Overall Martini. Reel & Brand was awarded Best Garnish with its Edible Borage Blossom.

The Lodge served vegan vegetable rolls, pigs-in-a-blanket, spinach and artichoke arancini, and assorted cheeses to keep everyone capable of walking.

Hardly anyone missed organizer Gary Saperstein's patent leather pumps, which he said were 'amazingly comfortable.'

Cooking classes at Williams-Sonoma

Williams-Sonoma chef Joanne Fusco offers the following classes at the store on Broadway in Sonoma. Feb. 9: Valentine Baking with baby lava cakes with raspberries and cookies; Feb. 16: 'Bluicer smoothies' – learn to streamline juicing and blending; Feb. 13: another Instant Pot class making a full meal. All classes are on Sundays from 1 to 3 p.m. and cost $60. 605 Broadway, Sonoma. Call 939-8974.

Valentine's Day treats

As I often say, this ultimate Hallmark holiday does not require candy or even a store-bought card. By the way, Valentine's is Friday, Feb. 14.

It just requires friendship, love, admiration or respect which can be expressed many ways: cooking a nice meal, folding the laundry, giving flowers or a plant to remember you by, a handmade card or gift, a walk or roll in the park, to the beach or in the woods.

But it you want to go out for a meal, here are some local Valentine menus to enjoy, this time in alphabetical order. Candied pecans and apple salads seem to be everywhere.

Café LaHaye

Owner Saul Gropman offers a three-course dinner that starts with arugula and Belgian endive salad with Duroc ham, gorgonzola and apples, beef carpaccio with fried oysters or winter soup. Main course choices include filet mignon with mashed potatoes and garlic French beans, king salmon with saffron couscous and broccolini, or quail with porcini sourdough stuffing and kale, and a selection of housemade desserts. $68. 140 E. Napa St., Sonoma. 935-5994.

Depot Hotel

Depot owners Gia and Tony Ghilarducci welcome diners to enjoy a first course of roasted tomato bisque with garlic aioli, followed by a choice of green salad with black truffles, pistachios and apples, scallops with Arborio rice or pork belly with poached apricots and frisée salad.

Third course choices include the Ghilarduccis' famous Dungeness crab cannelloni, filet of

Scottish salmon, spinach and ricotta ravioli, or filet of beef with puréed potatoes and asparagus. Dessert course brings chocolate torte, cheesecake with mango and raspberry coulis, or tiramisu. $75. From 5 p.m. 241 First St. W., Sonoma. 938-2980.

El Dorado Kitchen

EDK offers several starter selections such as steamed scallops with saffron, mixed greens with beets, Butternut squash noodles and crispy Brussels sprouts, octopus salad and sweetbreads with mushroom purée. Main courses offer ravioli with spinach and ricotta with crispy anchovies, seafood paella, rack of lamb with Yukon gold potato, beef three ways, lobster risotto with mushrooms and celery root, or petrale sole roulade with Dungeness crab. All followed by churros and a vanilla milkshake, passion fruit sorbet or chocolate flan. $69. 450 First St. W., Sonoma. 996-3030.

Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn

Santé restaurant celebrates Valentine's from Thursday through Sunday, Feb. 16 with an a la carte menu of oysters or Alaskan king crab cocktail. Dinner specials include bone-in-ribeye, Sonoma duck a l'orange, baked stuffed lobster with shrimp, scallop, crab and cracker crumbs, or black truffle pasta with white truffles and an egg yolk. Desserts will be flourless chocolate and passion fruit torte with dark chocolate sauce or a strawberry Coeur a la crème. 100 Boyes Blvd., Sonoma. 938-9000.

Girl & the Fig

Start with an amuse bouche of an herb gougère and smoked salmon rilette, followed by tuna crudo, smoked short rib with creamy –polenta and wild mushrooms, all topped off with a chocolate bar with raspberry mousse and chocolate ganache. $57. 110 W. Spain St., Sonoma. 938-3634.

Glen Ellen Inn

Owners Karen and Chris Bertrand offer an a la carte menu of lobster bisque, grilled Romaine with Caesar dressing or a local salad. ($12). The second course has raw oysters, brie fondue, Dungeness crab cake, or steamed mussels ($14-$18). The main course includes a pork chop with handmade chutney and mashed potatoes, eggplant Napoleon, filet mignon and prawns with blue cheese and Yukon gold potatoes, seared Ahi tuna, West Coast cioppino, or salmon pasta with Meyer lemon crema ($25 to $39). 12670 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen. 996-6409.

Glen Ellen Star

Owners Erinn and Ari Weisswasser celebrate Valentine's by providing a menu of chicories salad, a second course of Carolina gold rice cacao e pepe with a farm egg and crispy garlic, followed by braised beef short rib with cauliflower purée, carrots and Mache, and dessert of a chocolate and passion fruit bar, 18K gold, and caramel sauce. $75.13648 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen. 343-1384.

Picazo Kitchen

Owners Kina and Sal Chavez offer a three-course dinner beginning with cob-less Mexican street corn, pink ceviche, tamarind glazed meatballs, or Caesar salad. Entrées include seared salmon, burger with two garlic butter sautéed patties with melted cheese on a brioche bun, mole chicken tostadas, and a veggie garlic mash with seasoned Portobello and avocado chimichurri. Desserts bring flan brûlée, tiramisu, or rum-infused chocolate truffles. 19101 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma. 935-3287.

No holes in Sonoma donut scene

Dirty Girl Donuts of Cobb in Lake County has shut down its bakery. Founders Marisa Wondolleck and Sarah Decker are moving it all to Sonoma and are scheduled to initially sell retail in the front of what was Massage Envy.

Dirty Girl advertised on social media that they are “a growing artisan donut company based out of Sonoma Valley” and were “looking for motivated pastry chefs with a creative edge,” but apparently they are no longer accepting applications.

Their social media ads also said, “Here at Dirty Girl Donuts we create gourmet donuts with locally sourced seasonal ingredients. Our job is to push the envelope with flavor combinations, and creative presentations.”

About their donut business plan, Wondolleck was quoted in a 2017 story in the Lake County Record-Bee saying, “This was supposed to be a custom cake shop. But one Friday night we had too much wine” and changed direction.

Sonomans can also throw their donut support behind Harvey's Gourmet Donuts, a company run by the Cohen family who have lived in Sonoma for many years, and are expected to open a brick-and-mortar shop in El Paseo this spring in the space vacated by Hare & Hatter, which will reopen on Napa Street as Sausage Emporium.

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