Chef John Ash shares his favorite comfort foods to make at home
We've got our orders. Now we all must hunker down in place.
Since we can't go out to a restaurant or stock up at the hot bar, what are we doing about meals?
I have a friend, an eternal optimist, who sees a bit of a silver lining in this state of sheltering in place during the pandemic. She pointed out that many of us have pantries full of all kinds of ingredients from which we can make an easy meal, and that maybe this crisis will encourage us to do so.
If we dig into the back of the cupboard, we can find pasta, dry beans, canned tomatoes and gosh knows what else. If we don't have any of those, perhaps this is the time to stock up a little.
Now also is the time to try some new recipes that aren't too “cheffy” (turn off the Food Network, for goodness sake!). We might like them so much that they become part of our regular repertoire. We all need a couple of go-to, easy-to-do recipes to feed us and our family and friends, don't you think?
So here I share some of my easy favorites: Shakshuka, Oven “Fried” Corn Flake Crumbed Chicken, Spaghetti Alla Rustica, Coca-Cola Braised Brisket and the Best Grilled Cheese; along with two simple soups: 15-minute “Creamy” Tomato (with no cream) and Egg Drop Soup.
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Also known as Shakshouka in the Middle East, this dish is a staple throughout Israel, Libya, Algeria and Morocco. It's often served at breakfast but can be enjoyed any time of day.
Eggs Poached in Spicy Tomato Sauce (Shakshuka)
Makes 4 to 6 servings
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
6 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
1 small jalapeño chile, stemmed and chopped (or to taste)
1 15-ounce can garbanzos, drained and rinsed
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon sweet or smoked paprika
1 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes, preferably fire roasted
1 cup or more chicken stock or water
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese
4-6 eggs
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon crumbled dry mint
- Warm pita, for serving
Heat oil in a heavy, 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions, garlic and jalapeños and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is soft and just beginning to brown, about 6 minutes. Add garbanzos, cumin and paprika and cook for another minute or two.
Add tomatoes and 1 cup stock. Reduce heat to medium and simmer, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, about 15 minutes. With a wooden spoon, crush some of the beans to help thicken. Add more stock if desired. Season to your taste with salt and pepper. Sprinkle feta over sauce.
Crack eggs into sauce so that eggs are evenly spaced. Cover skillet, reduce heat if sauce is bubbling too frantically and cook until whites are set but yolks are runny, 6 to 8 minutes. Sprinkle shakshuka with parsley and mint and serve with pita, for dipping.
Alternately, eggs can be poached separately and added just before serving to heat through.
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Oven “Fried” Corn Flake Crumbed Chicken
Makes 4 servings
2 cups well-shaken buttermilk
4 large garlic cloves, peeled and lightly crushed
3 tablespoons hot sauce, such as sriracha or to taste
1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more as desired
2 teaspoons finely ground black pepper, plus more as desired
1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika (optional)
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
4 skinless, bone-in chicken thighs
4 skinless, bone-in chicken drumsticks
1 1/4 cups crushed corn flakes
4 tablespoons unsalted butter (1/2 stick), melted
Combine buttermilk, garlic, hot sauce, salt, pepper, paprika and cayenne in a large bowl and stir to combine. Rinse chicken and pat dry with paper towels, then transfer to a 13-by-9-inch baking dish. Pour buttermilk mixture over chicken, cover and refrigerate overnight, turning once or twice.
Heat the oven to 400 degrees and arrange a rack in the middle. Place a metal cooling rack inside a rimmed baking sheet and set aside.
Place crushed corn flakes in a shallow dish and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Remove chicken from buttermilk mixture, letting excess drip off and place in corn flakes, turning to coat completely and gently pressing crumbs onto chicken. Transfer to the rack-lined baking sheet and repeat with remaining chicken. Drizzle melted butter over chicken pieces.
Bake until golden and crispy and internal temperature is 160 degrees, about 45 minutes.
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This simple recipe is rooted in the flavorful cooking of Sardinia.
Don't be afraid of all the anchovies. They add a deep “umami” richness, and you won't know they are there even if you think you don't like them.
Feel free to add whatever else you have on hand, like some drained capers, chopped olives or chopped sun-dried tomatoes.
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