Don’t abandon spring vegetables just yet, Sonoma

I was amazed to find local zucchini at the farmers market recently. Hold on please, I’m still firmly rooted in springtime. My late season favorites are still coming on strong and I, for one, have no intention of having anything to do with zucchini for at least a month. English peas, fava beans, sugar snap peas, and radishes are at their peak now – as are fennel, green garlic and leeks.

Green garlic is typically not available in stores, but is a local favorite at our farmers market. It looks very much like a large scallion and is harvested before the root has a chance to mature into the familiar bulb shape. It has a subtler flavor and is better cooked gently and slowly. I’m offering this simple springtime recipe that combines three of my favorites in a homey gratin. The secret is to gently cook the vegetables before baking in the oven.

Fennel, Green Garlic and Leek Gratin

Serves 4

2 small leeks, most of green leaves removed

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

3 fennel bulbs, cored and sliced 1/4-inch thick

4 stalks of green garlic, most of green leaves removed

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves

? cup vegetable stock

½ cup heavy cream

1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt

¼ cup fresh breadcrumbs

3 tablespoons grated Parmesan

Cut leeks in half lengthwise and then into 1/2-inch thick slices. Place slices in a large bowl filled with cool water and swirl the bowl gently.

Use a Chinese strainer to lift leeks into a colander to drain. Lay leeks on paper towels to remove excess water.

Cut green garlic in half lengthwise and cut into ½ inch slices.

Heat a medium saucepan over medium heat and add olive oil and butter. Add leeks, green garlic and fennel, and cook, covered, for 5 minutes.

Remove cover and cook for 5 more minutes. Add thyme, stock, and salt.

Cook for 5 minutes. Pour into a baking dish to a depth of about 3/4 inch, drizzle with cream, sprinkle with breadcrumbs and Parmesan, and bake at 375°F for 40 minutes on top rack.

Let cool 10 minutes before serving.

John McReynolds is culinary director at Stone Edge Farm Estate Vineyards and Winery and author of “Stone Edge Farm Cookbook.”