Sonoma – barbecue capital of the North Bay?

Recent offerings have Valley grill scene smoking|

Curious timing last week when Rob Larman opened his fabulous Cochon Volant BBQ Smokehouse in Boyes Hot Springs at nearly the precise moment Rossi’s 1906 introduced Ari Weisswasser of Glen Ellen Star as consulting barbecue chef.

Barbecue, Texas- or any other style, is of personal taste, as is Santa Maria or central coast tri-tip. Each “pit master” has his, and occasionally her, own rubs and methods, with varying degrees of “heat” according to their own tastes and traditions. There really isn’t any right or wrong in barbecuing (unless you forget the chicken parts on the grill over night). Whether to add sauce before or after smoking or barbecuing, or at all, is a running debate, given that sauces often include sugar.

On my personal “heat meter,” I would rate Cochon Volant as the milder side, and Rossi’s on the spicier side. While there’s an implication that if you can’t take the heat you are a wimp, it just ain’t true. It’s simply a matter of preference.

Rob Larman officially opened his Cochon Volant BBQ Smokehouse in Boyes Hot Springs on Nov. 5, after enjoying huge success with his barbecue at Off the Grid in San Francisco’s Presidio and at Sonoma’s Best. In the past he owned Rob’s Rib Shack and La Poste here in Sonoma.

Larman spent time in Austin, Texas learning barbecue techniques, and he learned well. Hosting a few warmup dinners for media and personal friends, many of us were impressed with the seemingly perfect offerings such as large and luscious wedge, kale and Cobb salads, yummy beans, garlic mashed potatoes, hot pie-shaped slices of skillet cornbread served with butter and honey, beef brisket, short ribs falling off the bone, coleslaw, sausage, “killer fries” sprinkled lightly with cayenne, surprisingly tasty mac ‘n’ cheese fritters, hamburgers from beef Larman grinds daily, salt and pepper baby back ribs, and wife Lizzy’s chocolate chip cookie, ganache, ice cream, and whipped cream parfaits served in a jar (better share this one). Housemade sauces come separately so that you can add to your meats if you choose. Local beer and wine. 18350 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma. 509-5480.

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After visiting Austin to investigate the minutiae of Texas barbecue, Glen Ellen Star chef/co-owner Ari Weisswasser has come to the rescue of Rossi’s 1906 kitchen and is teaching chef Dave Clark his own spin on Texas barbecue so guests can enjoy the food as well as the fun, great historic bar, beer garden atmosphere and music with favorite nibbles.

Media was recently invited to experience and sample Ari’s new spin on barbecue. Appetizers included chewy crispy pig ears (they really are), brown butter mini-corn muffins, and chicken fat fries cooked with malt vinegar, salt and lemon, an addictive but salty combo reminiscent more of Canada or Britain than Texas, but definitely reflecting Ari’s creativity. (These have no connection to EDK’s subtle duck fat fries.)

From the smoker we tasted spicy pork ribs, sliced smoked and tender Diestel turkey breast and pulled pork, followed by juicy Colorado beef brisket and barbecued oysters. Sides included somewhat spicy al dente baked Rancho Gordo beans, delish palate-cooling macaroni and cheese made with Vella cheese, and local collard greens. Small pecan open-faced “hand pies” arrived to share, along with Glen Ellen Star salted peanut and vanilla maple bourbon ice cream newly labeled with Rossi’s 1906.

You can try all this as a “Q Tasting” with four meats and two sides for $25, two person minimum. Check out the music schedule at rossis1906.com. Owner Max Young owns several Bay area bars and has great music and entertainment contacts. 401 Grove St., Sonoma. 343-0044.

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Meanwhile, Brannon Fetzer is serving his excellent Q Craft BBQ at Ernie’s Tin Bar at Lakeville Highway and 116, following a quick remodel of the joint after a truck crashed into its wall. Watch for Hog Island oysters, smoked duck bao with Vietnamese caramel, smoked wings, St. Louis ribs and pulled pork sliders.

Picazo Café & Deli at 19100 Arnold Drive at the Grove Street corner has been serving outdoor Weber-barbecued chicken, ribs and pulled pork with beans and cole slaw for more than a year and has its own fans.

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