Starting as a 19-year-old dishwasher, straight off the boat from Tuscany – so to speak – Lorenzo Petroni took the American Dream by the hand and walked it all the way to the altar. When he died last week, just short of his 76th birthday, he had become a legend in San Francisco and the proprietor of a classic Italian winery on the side of Sonoma Valley.
Petroni spent his first decade in San Francisco doing every menial restaurant task that needed doing, learning and saving along the way until, in 1970, he was ready to make his move. That year, he and chef Bruno Orsi opened North Beach Restaurant, near the corner of Stockton and Columbus, specializing in traditional Tuscan recipes – and a lot of them.
In short order, the restaurant became a North Beach institution and Petroni became a cardinal character in San Francisco’s restaurant universe.
Petroni, an outspoken political conservative, nevertheless made many lasting friendships among the City’s liberal elected elite, notably including former mayor and Assembly Speaker Willie Brown, who ate there at least once a week. North Beach regularly fed former Mayor Gavin Newsom, Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger, senators, members of Congress, actors, writers and busloads of tourists.
A devotee of Italian wine, Petroni stocked his bar with more than 400 labels and, in 1992, he and his wife, Maria Elena, bought a 37-acre estate off the side of Cavedale Road, on the side of the Mayacamas range at 800 feet. There he planted a certified organic vineyard with clones of a prized Sangiovese Grosso clone called Brunello, along with an organic garden, and a palatial rabbit and hen house to supply the restaurant.
The winery occupied basement space beneath an imposing villa, and the wine filled the tables at the restaurant.
Two years ago, Petroni opened a tasting room just off the Sonoma Plaza on Broadway, and began excavating a massive cave complex in the steep hillside behind the villa.
Petroni loved to entertain friends at the villa, but regardless of the day of the week, he would set off for the City each afternoon to take up his place at a table toward the back of North Beach, from which he would greet guests, chat with friends, conduct business, argue politics – always expansive, gregarious and insistent that, no matter what was on the menu, he knew best what a guest should order,
He orchestrated the waiters like a conductor, gesturing for wine or bread or another menu choice, deftly guiding each diner’s experience.
He was called, without hyperbole, the mayor of North Beach, and it was not uncommon to see one of the city’s real mayors standing deferentially at Petroni’s table, while the don sat and held court among the trappings of a meal.
Friends report of Petroni’s legendary generosity – one longtime admirer related that, when the Great Recession hit, Petroni loaned him some $20,000 to get through a rough period and then later, without being asked, co-signed a $500,000 real estate loan.
His friendships ranged from liberal politicians and iconic columnist Herb Caen, to moderate talk show host Ronn Owens, to right wing talk jock Michael Savage.
In early 2013, Petroni let it be publicly known that he was being treated for esophageal cancer. While undergoing chemo treatments, Petroni went on with his life, working, entertaining and assuring friends he was not in any pain.
A winter trip to Germany for an experimental cleansing treatment was unsuccessful, and Petroni was hospitalized shortly after his return.
He retired to his Glen Ellen villa where he spent his remaining days surrounded by friends and family.
He died there May 27.
Accompanying a brief announcement about his passing, the family repeated one of Petroni’s favorite sayings – “Life is too short to drink bad wine ... so salute!”
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