Sonoma Magazine / Summer 2010 / one word: Strawberries

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one word: Strawberries

Season with orange zest and black pepper (From the Summer 2010 issue of SONOMA)

Let's say you lost your seven-figure real estate job because the housing market tanked, you like working with your hands and you managed to hang onto that acre of bottom land with the rich, black soil.

And let's say you've always wanted to farm, a vineyard is too big an investment, but you want to grow something with a guaranteed market, something people will line up to buy at your door.

So what's your crop of choice?

One word: strawberries.

It's the first crop to ripen in the spring and 94 percent of American households eat them, averaging 3.4 pounds for every man woman and child.

If you're dubious about the strawberry market, drive out to the corner of Arnold Drive at Watmaugh Road and watch the traffic at the roadside strawberry stand.

It's Sonoma's own strawberry patch, prized for early crops bearing fruit of exceptional sweetness and fragrance, producing luscious berries that will stain your fingers and lips and signal the very essence of summer.

And even if you never have a roadside stand, Sonoma offers a wonderful environment for growing strawberries. With warm, sunny days, cool, foggy nights and a valley full of rich, loamy soil, Sonoma is the perfect place to grow strawberries. The scarlet red berry, seemingly strewn among its leaves, was originally called the "strewberry," meaning to "scatter." It most likely was named for the plant's prolific production of runners that spread out among the greens.

The strawberry is a perennial plant that produces traveling vines close to the ground. But they aren't really berries or fruit in the "botanical" sense, and their peculiar structure makes them unique. Technically, strawberries are known as "false" fruit as the "seeds" on the berry are really not seeds at all. In fact, the seeds, unlike those of any other fruit, are on the outside and the true fruits of the plant. What we know as the "berry" is a seed that grows from the stalk and enlarges into a fleshy, conical-shaped receptacle called the strawberry.

The very best berries can be found in farm stands and farmers markets from May through July. The Valley's cool mornings are best for harvesting the fruit, which is done by hand to protect the plants' shallow roots. They have to be picked at full ripeness because the berries don't ripen once off the vine. Choose berries that are plump, firm, bright red without white patches, and with a cap bright green and fresh-looking. Size doesn't matter: all perfectly ripened strawberries, large and small, are equally sweet, juicy and fragrant. The flavor is influenced by the weather and the stage of ripeness when harvested.

Careful handling and storing will maintain the fruit's maximum flavor, color and texture. Gently wash the berries only when ready to use. Rinse lightly, shake off any excess moisture, and use immediately. Once rinsed, the berries spoil very quickly. Keep stems attached until ready to use and be sure to rinse with green caps intact, as this will prevent the absorption of more moisture. Hull the berries after washing and just before using.

To store, refrigerate strawberries unwashed and loosely packed in their original ventilated container. Discard any berries that are bruised and moldy. Keep refrigerated up to four days or freeze for up to six months to use in fruit smoothies, homemade ice cream, or for making jams and jellies.

Strawberries are one of life's simple, sweet pleasures and a culinary treasure in Sonoma. Indulging in a bowl brimming with the plump, juicy berries is simply a delightful experience. Dish them up with some brown sugar and crème fraiche for dipping. Or liberally season sliced berries with freshly zested orange and ground black pepper for an exotic treat. Strawberries are as good for you as they are to eat, since they're a rich source of vitamin C, potassium and iron. So dig in, don't hold back-it's time to stain your fingertips red.

 

 

Strawberry and Arugula Salad with Balsamic-Hazelnut Vinaigrette

The peppery and nutty flavors of this savory salad blend beautifully with the sweet berries. Serves 4

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon sweet mustard
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/2 cup hazelnut oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1/4 pound arugula, tough stems removed
1/4 pound fresh spinach leaves
2 cups strawberries, hulled and sliced
1/2 cup hazelnuts, toasted and finely
chopped, for garnish

In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, mustard and sugar. While continuing to whisk, add the oil in a steady stream and continue to whisk until the oil is incorporated. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.
In a large salad bowl, toss the arugula, spinach and strawberries with the vinaigrette. Evenly divide among four salad plates and garnish with hazelnuts.
 

 

 

 

 

 

   

Fresh Strawberries with Grand Marnier Mascarpone Cream

The rich mascarpone, a delicately flavored triple cream cheese, is all you need to accompany fresh berries. Truly decadent. Serves 6 to 8

8 ounces mascarpone cheese
1/2 cup sugar
3 tablespoons Grand Marnier liqueur
1 teaspoon vanilla
8 ounces whipping cream
Zest of one orange
3 1-pint baskets fresh strawberries,
hulled and sliced

Using a hand-held mixer, combine the mascarpone, sugar, liqueur and vanilla and beat until blended. Add the cream, 1/2 cup at a time, and beat until soft peaks form. Gently fold in the orange zest. Cover and chill for 1 hour. Place fruit in individual bowls and top with a dollop of cream.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fresh Strawberry Tart

Serves 8

2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup confectioners' sugar
8 ounces unsalted butter,
at room temperature

16 ounces cream cheese,
at room temperature
3/4 cup sugar
1 tablespoon vanilla

3 1-pint baskets fresh strawberries,
hulled and sliced
1/4 cup apricot jam
2 tablespoons water

In a mixing bowl, combine the flour, brown sugar, confectioners' sugar and butter and mix together well. In a tart pan with a removable bottom, press the dough into the pan up the sides of the pan to form a crust. Bake the crust in a preheated 350-degree oven until lightly browned, approximately 15 minutes. Set aside to cool.

In a mixing bowl, combine the cream cheese, sugar and vanilla and whisk together until smooth. Evenly spread the filling onto the cooled crust. Arrange the sliced strawberries on top of the filling.

In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the jam and water and bring to a simmer, forming a glaze. Gently brush the fruit with the glaze. Serve chilled or at room temperature.

  

 

(From the Summer 2010 issue of SONOMA)