In praise of asparagus

A sure sign of spring

This sleek harbinger of the new season is one of nature’s most delicious gifts.

It’s spring. It’s asparagus. The quintessential expression of an awakening season is the
appearance of fresh, snappy asparagus spears. Whether sprung from the overflowing produce stand or snapped from a garden bed, those bright green spears are certain evidence that spring has arrived.

Aware of my love for asparagus, one of the first gifts my husband gave me was the planting of an asparagus patch. Now an asparagus patch is a long-term investment, as the first years of sowing are unproductive, and no crop produces the culinary treat for some time. I found this prophetic gift rather romantic and a sign that the relationship might endure. Well, our asparagus bed is mature these days, producing lovely stalks that we pick and eat daily this time of year. And while some kids profess their love for mom by picking a wildflower or two, my precious children harvest asparagus shoots from the family garden, presenting them with the knowledge that it will please their mother to no end. Ah, the tender delights of spring!

Asparagus, this sleek harbinger of the new season, is one of nature’s most delicious gifts. A member of the lily family and harvested since ancient times, asparagus has long been considered a great delicacy. It was the Romans who discovered the culinary aspects of the vegetable and spread its cultivation throughout the world. Easily grown in mild climates and sandy soils, asparagus can be found growing nearly everywhere, with its season running from March through June. Although markets stock asparagus year-round, growers limit their harvest and traditionally observe the 24th of June as the last picking day. Rapid changes occur in the plant during its limited growing period, and it needs the opportunity to rest in order to produce the next season’s crop.

Few vegetables have the impact of flavor like that of a thick, green stalk of asparagus. Thin asparagus shoots may look appealing on the plate, but culinary experts know it’s the jumbo spears that pack the most flavor, and I will always purchase the thickest stalks I can find. (An exception: on a recent trip to New Orleans, while dining at the famous Commander’s Palace restaurant, I found myself devouring pencil-thin spears of fresh, bright-green local asparagus bathed in sweet butter. It proved a memorable meal, and I love asparagus so much I savored this side dish as my first course, sharing only because it was the polite thing to do.)

The size of the spears is dictated by the maturity of the plant from which it came and, depending on your preference, you’ll find every size available at the market.
Choose bright green, firm stalks with closed, compact and tight tips and avoid bases that are dried out and woody. Asparagus is best consumed as soon as possible, but can be stored in the refrigerator a day or two loosely wrapped in paper. Any longer, place the stalks, tips up, in a container of water.

Asparagus is a snap to cook. Trim the tough ends and peel thicker stalks if you prefer. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and plunge the asparagus into the water. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until crisp-tender, approximately three minutes. To steam, prepare the steamer with about 2 cups of water and bring to a rapid boil. Place the stalks in the steamer rack and count on two or three more minutes until done. If appropriate for the recipe, remove the asparagus to an ice bath to halt further cooking. As delightful to eat as it is healthy for you, asparagus is high in fiber and contains significant amounts of vitamins A, B and C. 

Roasted Asparagus with Balsamic-Hazelnut Vinaigrette

Serves 6

¼ cup balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon sweet mustard
½ teaspoon sugar
½ cup toasted hazelnut oil
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil plus 2 tablespoons
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to   taste
1 pound asparagus, trimmed
½ cup hazelnuts, toasted and finely chopped, for garnish

In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, mustard and sugar. While continuing to whisk, add the hazelnut oil and ¼ cup olive oil in a steady stream and continue to whisk until the oils are incorporated. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.
 
Place the asparagus in a shallow baking dish and toss with the 2 tablespoons olive oil. Arrange the spears in a single layer and season with salt and pepper. Roast in a preheated 400-degree oven, gently tossing a time or two, until tender, about 15 minutes.

Arrange the roasted asparagus on a platter and drizzle the vinaigrette over the spears. Garnish with the hazelnuts.
 

Cream of Asparagus Soup with Spring Herb Gremolata

Serves 6

4 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 leeks, trimmed and sliced
4 pounds fresh asparagus, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
6 cups chicken stock
¼ cup dry sherry
½ cup crème fraîche
Salt and freshly ground black pepper,
to taste
3 tablespoons fresh flat-leaf parsley, minced
Zest of 2 lemons
1 clove garlic, minced

In a heavy stockpot over medium-high heat, melt the butter. Add the leeks and sauté until tender, approximately 3 minutes. Add the asparagus and stock and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the asparagus is very tender, approximately 20 minutes.

Using a hand-held immersion blender, puree the soup until smooth. Stir in the sherry and crème fraîche and heat through. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.

For the gremolata, mix together the parsley, lemon zest and garlic in a small bowl.

To serve, ladle the soup into soup bowls and garnish with the gremolata.

Savory Bread Pudding with Asparagus and Gruyère

Serves 8

1 pound asparagus, trimmed and cut into
1-½-inch pieces
1  1-pound loaf sourdough bread, torn into bite-size pieces
8 ounces Gruyère cheese, grated
8 ounces Swiss cheese, grated
1 medium onion, finely chopped
3 tablespoons fresh marjoram, minced
3 tablespoons fresh flat-leaf parsley, minced
1 bunch fresh chives, minced
3 cups milk
6 large eggs
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
½ cup Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated

Cook the asparagus in a large pot of boiling salted water until crisp-tender, approximately 3 minutes. Drain and set aside.

In a large bowl, combine the bread pieces, cheese, onion, marjoram, parsley and chives. Toss in the asparagus. Spread the mixture in a gratin or shallow baking dish.

In the same bowl, combine the milk and eggs and whisk together well. Season with salt and pepper. Pour the mixture over the bread and sprinkle the Parmesan on top. Bake in a preheated 375-degree oven until golden brown and the custard is set, approximately 40 minutes. Serve warm.

From the spring 2009 issue of SONOMA